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The Secret Life of Victorian Cards
By Barbara Rusch
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Like
other forms of mass-produced ephemera cards of all types proliferated
with the new technologies of the mid-1800s, allowing for increased
social interaction and the regulation of social standards which
characterized the Victorian era. As the 19th century progressed,
rules of deportment became more rigid, and cards helped define the
complicated new social code and express its growing sentimentality.
Like the lace flounces and beribboned furbelows of women's dresses
that concealed the stifling steel and whalebone corsets beneath,
the honeycomb tissue, hearts and flowers, and elaborate typography
of Victorian cards concealed an unrelenting and faintly sinister
protocol. Adherence to that protocol determined membership in the
burgeoning club of middle class "wannabes" whose values cards
both reflected and reinforced. Cards were the ambassadors of social
convention, and their subtle, covert messages were well understood
by those who used them as tools in the creation of an image of respectability
in an increasingly demanding and judgemental world.
Particularly noteworthy are cards of social and cultural significance
such as the visiting card. In Our Deportment, published in
1890, John Young observes: "To the unrefined or under-bred, the
visiting card is but a trifling and insignificant bit of social
paper; but to the cultured disciple of social law, it conveys a
subtle and unmistakable intelligence. Its texture, style of engraving,
and even the hour of leaving it, combine to place the stranger,
whose name it bears, in a pleasant or a disagreeable attitude, even
before his manners, conversation and face have been able to explain
his social position."Because so much of one's daily activities
were strictly circumscribed, Victorian life was imbued with hidden
meanings. There were secret languages of flowers, fans, even hair,
and what more effective way to subtly or covertly communicate secret
messages than in a card? If the right upper corner of the card was
turned down, it signified a visit had been made; the left upper
corner, felicitation; the left lower corner, condolence; the right
lower corner, pour prendre cong»e, or farewell. Often
these discreet messages were left on silver salvers, obviating the
necessity of the donor and recipient actually seeing each other
and engaging in meaningful conversation.
Mourning cards and cards of condolence were part of a larger convention
which saw the practices and paraphernalia of mourning proliferate
exponentially following the death of Queen Victoria's husband, Prince
Albert, in 1861. Certainly black clothing and memorial jewelry fashioned
from the hair of the deceased had been part of the social scene
before this national catastrophe, but a show of respect rapidly
turned into a full-fledged cult of mourning, much of it affecting
and targeting women. It included the wearing of uncomfortable fabrics
for protracted periods, black jet jewelry, and such ostentatious
trappings of sorrow as coffin plates, elaborate wreaths, and black
bordered stationery. Memorial cards announced the sad event with
the aid of a complete iconography of death, including urns, weeping
willows, and even weepier women. John Young writes, "On announcement
of death it is correct to call in person at the door, to make inquiries
and leave your card with lower left hand corner turned down. Cards
can be sent to express sympathy, but notes of condolence are permissible
only from intimate friends."
Cards
of all descriptions were part of the etiquette of the day, and the
natural connection between the two was explained by Monfort B. Allen,
M.D. and Amelia C. McGregor, M.D. in their 1896 instructional book,
The Glory of Women or Love, Marriage and Maternity: "The
word etiquette means a ticket, and the ceremonies of special occasions
were formerly written on cards or tickets, furnished to each person
who took part in them. Such cards are still delivered, in some places,
to the mourners at funerals, and we have bills of fare at dinners,
the order of dancing at balls, and programmes at entertainments.
So cards of invitation tell us that there is to be dancing, and
cards of admission sometimes specify what dress is to be worn."
The 19th-century card encompassed a surprisingly broad scope of
printed ephemera for the purposes of conveying information relevant
to a diverse range of social activities. In an age of ceremony,
when even the most mundane activities were ritualized, and part
of one's success in life depended on the proper observance of the
ritual itself, cards were one of the tools to achieve that success.
Perhaps nowhere was the observance of ritual more important than
at the ball, soir»e or reception, which were minefields of social
warfare. One false step (either literal or figurative) Û a slight
oversight in one's apparel, ignorance of which fork to use at dinner,
or an inappropriate introduction Û and the consequences could be
dire indeed. Within the exacting cabal of "polite society,"
one might be relegated to a social no-man's-land for the smallest
infraction of the rules, where redemption would be next to impossible.
Social intercourse was serious business, and leisure and cultural
pastimes, which should have served as a reprieve from the demanding
world of business and homemaking, were often no more than a pretence,
a thin veneer concealing the public gauntlet contestants in this
parlor game called "How To Be a Proper Victorian" were forced
to run. Like most forms of social intercourse, the protocol of the
dance floor was strictly regulated. It was the runway upon which
a young lady's or gentleman's attributes were paraded to their best
advantage (or detriment), and prospective spouses and their parents
could size up the candidates and the competition.
Into
this war zone enters the dance card. Essentially a program with
the order of the dances and blanks for recording engagements for
each, they were distributed to the guestsÛboth male and femaleÛas
they entered the ballroom. To each card would be attached a small
pencil. "My dance card is full" was a situation in which most
young ladies hoped to find themselves. Dangling delectably from
dainty wrists or waistbands throughout the evening, or tucked into
beaded reticules, dance cards could be elaborate in the extreme,
featuring colored scraps, ribbons, netting and even the occasional
stuffed bird.
For a society that took itself so seriously, whose rules and code
of ethics were both immutable and sacrosanct, the chromo- lithographed
greeting cards which proliferated during the 19thcentury reflected
a tendency toward sentimentality that was becoming a hallmark of
Victorian popular culture, providing evidence that the Victorians
were not all as stuffed as their shirts or as starched as their
collars. They did have a romantic, whimsical, fun-loving side.
Long before the first Christmas card was printed in 1843, Queen
Victoria's mother, the Duchess of Kent, distributed beautifully
crafted German cards, including Biedermeiers, to the members of
the household at New Year's, created by such renowned designers
as H.F. Muller and Joseph Entletzberger, both of Vienna. An illustration
of Queen Victoria, Prince Albert, and their children around a table-top
tree laden with gifts and candles appeared in the Illustrated
London News in 1848, and thus began the celebration of the Victorian
Christmas. Queen Victoria herself did much to ensure the commercial
success of this new medium, and for a time she practically sustained
the entire Christmas card industry single-handedly, granting Raphael
Tuck a Royal Warrant in 1893 to produce thousands of cards to be
sent to friends, family, and neighbors at Windsor and Osborne.
By the 1890s Christmas cards were being exchanged in the hundreds
of thousands. Though there were some elaborate crÀche scenes, Christmas
cards, both English and American, tended to reflect the preoccupations
of the society that produced them rather than the religious festival
they were intended to commemorate. Santa Claus and Father Christmas,
gadgets and gizmos, and modes of transportation were all extremely
popular.
Following Christmas was Valentine's Day. The tradition of composing
rhyming love letters on Valentine's Day was established by the 15th
century and had evolved by the 17thto amorous addresses or verses.
Hand-drawn valentines and love notes were popular throughout the
19th century. Commercial valentines were available in England by
the early 1800s, and in America shortly thereafter. By mid-century,
valentine makers such as Joseph Mansell in England and Esther Howland,
who in 1848 set up a production line in her home in Worcester, Mass.,
were assembling gorgeous confections composed of layers of embossed
and lace paper decorated with cupids, hearts, and other traditional
symbols of Valentine's Day. By the 1880s, mass color printing had
added a new dimension to the valentine in the form of German-made
pop-up chromolithographs. Die-cut and embossed on heavy cardboard
stock, these elaborate confections featured scraps of cherubs, flowers,
elegant women, and rosy-cheeked children set against gilt and floral
backdrops. Red or pink tissue paper in honeycomb shapes added drama
when the cards were opened. As with the Christmas cards, around
the turn of the century motor cars, steamships, and trains became
focal points.
Not unexpectedly, the technology used to exchange greetings was
also employed in the advancement of the new culture of commerce.
With their covert messages and vivid images, trade cards promoted
not only the new packaged products, but the new social order. Individually,
each of these little artifacts has a story to tell. Taken together,
they weave a narrative of daily life in the 19thcentury.
Trade
cards were more than pretty pictures to those who pasted them into
albums and tucked them into shoe boxes for another generation to
discover. More than anything else they represented miniature replicas
of the Victorians as they saw themselves Û or wished to Û mothers,
fathers, children, successful members of the community and those
who couldn't make the grade. The icons were instantly recognizable,
tiny mirror images reflecting an individual, a community or a nation,
and just as 100 years later we seek to identify with those
whom society has deemed the best and the most beautiful, so the
Victorians sought to align themselves with the powerful messages
that defined social convention.
This was all the more important in an age that stressed conformity
and status, and collecting these colorful images was more than just
a hobby ç it was a kind of navel gazing, a congratulatory act of
self-indulgence and a tribute to their ingenuity. The Victorians
were desperate to define themselves in terms of the level of industrial
progress and material success they had achieved, and trade cards
were a double bonus: not only did they represent flattering images
of middle class America artistically rendered, but they served as
rewards of merit, offered free of charge as a prize simply for being
conscientious consumers.
As a profusion of printed words and images entered into the experience
of ordinary people, trade cards became an important means by which
rules and standards were defined and disseminated, much as television
affected our lives in the last half of the 20thcentury. By the end
of the gilded age, these visual bulletins served much the same purpose
as parents and teachers, bombarding young children with models of
acceptable behaviour and with social and cultural values. This popular
imagery functioned in complex ways. It reflected contemporary opinions,
since it aimed to please and persuade the viewer, but it also influenced
social attitudes, since the repeated messages formed and reinforced
contemporary standards and evolving values. Trade cards acted as
a camera lens, not simply recording social convention, but helping
define and create it. Images on trade cards portrayed a sanitized
version of 19th-century life, complete with blissfully happy families,
beautifully coiffed women, healthy, well-behaved children, and products
that promised solutions to all of life's problems. The Victorian
age ushered in dramatic economic and social changes, and trade cards
traced the journey from once predominantly agrarian American to
the new urban realities.
The use of cards in 19th-century daily life represented and helped
define class, breeding and status. They were a form of social contract,
a common language, and ideology through which the Victorians communicated
with one another, maintained moral standards, and disseminated popular
culture. With their vivid images of upwardly mobile over-achievers
and messages of love, condolence, and purchasing power, cards identified
individuals as belonging to the consumer culture, having the time
to enjoy leisure hours, the means to purchase goods, the predisposition
to celebrate intimate occasions with loved ones, and to pay proper
homage to them when they departed this world.
They are evidence of the formal ritualization of daily life, an
admission ticket to an elite and prestigious club which represented
the new social order. One contemporary commentator of the Victorian
social scene observed that "the higher the civilization of a
community, the more careful it is to preserve the elegance of its
social forms."If so, Victorian cards represent one of the
highest forms of expression of that age of ceremony and ritual.
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